Knights Ferry is an unincorporated historic community in Stanislaus County. Nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, it is about 30 miles (48 km) east of Modesto on Highway 108 and the Stanislaus River. The Williams Ranch near the town was one of many filming locations for the television series “Bonanza” and “Little House on the Prairie.”
When gold was discovered in California in 1848, Dr. William Knight rediscovered the pass he had crossed with John C. Fremont years before as a scout and hunter and established a trading post and ferry. Knight had chosen his site well. The river bars and banks, the hills, and gulches for miles in all directions were rich in gold. The wealth of the region, combined with being located on the main road from Stockton to the Southern Mines, resulted in thousands of miners passing through the settlement of Knights Ferry. And if they wanted to cross the river, they had to pay the ferryman. But Knight never saw the success of his venture as he was killed in cold blood on the main street of his newly established village and buried in an unmarked grave.
Dent, Vantine & Co. took over the ferry business after Knight’s death. Comprised of Vantine and the brothers John and Lewis Dent, the company’s first act was to build a new boat “in the classic ferry style.” After paying $300 for their San Joaquin County ferry permit, the firm lowered the toll charge to $2 in the hopes it would increase ferry travel and patronage at their newly built restaurant and boarding house. Eventually the Dents planned on building a bridge across the Stanislaus River.
Legend has it that the Dents’ brother-in-law, Ulysses S. Grant, drew up the plans for their bridge while visiting the boys in 1854. Grant had married their sister Julia, back in St. Louis, Missouri. She remained home while Grant was serving on the West Coast. The Dents never got around to building it; though, as they sold the ferry and the timber to David Locke on November 1 of 1856, for $26,000. Locke immediately began work on a bridge across the Stanislaus. The work on the bridge progressed rapidly and on January 7 of 1857, the Board of Supervisors issued Locke his first license. The fee was set at $140 per year, and at the same time the board set the toll schedule for the bridge. A two horse or ox team would pay $1 to cross the bridge; one horse and vehicle 75 cents; one horse and rider, 50 cents; loose horses, mules, or cattle, 20 cents per head; hogs, sheep or goats were 10 cents per head; and a footman was 25 cents. In addition to Knights Ferry being an important stage and supply center, the new bridge, the mills, and the completion of a ditch on the north side of the river to bring water to a rich stratum of ancient gold-bearing gravel, all combined to create a period of great prosperity for the community. By 1859, Main Street was home for two hotels, four general merchandise stores, two attorneys, a physician, blacksmith, livery stable, boot store, book and stationery store, and market. On April 1 of 1860, the town became part of Stanislaus County when Governor John G. Downey signed a bill that annexed away an area of over 150 square miles from San Joaquin to Stanislaus County. Knights Ferry served as the county seat from 1862 to 1872. Towards the end of 1862, a warm, unseasonable rain swept across the high Sierras, melting the heavy snows of the previous months. This icy runoff joined the Stanislaus and the river began to rise. On January 11, the flood crested at Knights Ferry. The torrent swept through town, washing away many homes and most of the business section. But the bridge stood fast, even though its deck was under several feet of water.
It’s likely that the bridge could have survived the flood as the supports and foundation were holding against the troubled waters. A short distance upstream from Knights Ferry was the Two-Mile Bar Bridge. Torn loose from its foundations, the Two-Mile Bar Bridge had become an unstoppable force and was heading downstream and it smashed into the Knights Ferry bridge, crushing the truss supports and knocking it off its foundations. It was totally destroyed.
As the flood waters subsided, the old ferry was brought back into service, and in March the Stanislaus Bridge and Ferry Company began construction on a new bridge. This one would be a covered bridge and would sit eight feet higher than its predecessor. Completed in record time, the new covered bridge opened to traffic in the spring of 1863.
The present day covered bridge (which is a must-see if you are in the area) spans 330 feet and is the longest covered bridge west of the Mississippi River. As successful as the building of the new bridge was, however, Knights Ferry’s prosperity that was seen during the gold rush began to fade, as commercial roots began to move closer to Oakdale and Modesto. Eventually Locke sold the flour mill, and the mill was eventually transformed into a power plant owned by Stanislaus County. So too the county bought the rights to the covered bridge in the mid 1880s. As the 20th century rolled in, Knights Ferry gradually moved away from the limelight and became the community it is today.
Many of the relics of the gold-rush, the old mill, the covered bridge, the fire station, as well as general stores and hotels, can still be seen in present day Knights Ferry. The general store has been in operation for over 100 years as well as the local bed and breakfast. A makeshift iron jail that is over a century old still resides in town but no longer in use. The covered bridge has undergone a few renovations since its building, but still stands today. Recently, because of the flooding during January of 2023, the bridge is temporarily closed to foot traffic. The county’s plan is to offer its services again to allow for a pleasant stroll over the Stanislaus River (to be announced at a later date).
A museum located in the center of town on Main Street is a great place to visit and learn about the history, the local wildlife, and the many rafting opportunities in the area. Local historian Carol Davis is very knowledgeable about the town’s history and gave us a great tour of the museum and information about a nice walking tour of Knights Ferry. The museum is open the first Sunday of every month from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Also upon request, they are open for group tours.
Jim Cunningham and Flip Hassett are both retired, but they remain active in Merced County as community advocates, local history buffs and photographers.